K2 Climbing Routes: A Comprehensive Guide

Named after Slovenian climber Tomo Česen, who is said to have completed this route as a solo expedition in 1986, the Cesen climbing path offers a challenging alternative to the Abruzzi Spur. While both routes begin at Godwin-Austen Glacier, the Cesen Path takes a more direct, and consequently steeper, line to the summit.

Technically, the Cesen Route is often considered the least dangerous way for climbers to reach the summit. It avoids “The Black Pyramid”, connecting with the Abruzzi Spur route at the “Shoulder” around two-thirds of the way up the mountain. From there, it follows the same path to the summit, encountering the bottleneck at 8,200 meters and the 'Traverse' at 8,300 meters. 

Often touted as the less perilous route on K2, the Cesen Route shouldn't lull climbers into complacency. This path presents a formidable challenge with steep ice and snow slopes, punctuated by sections of complex rock faces demanding exceptional technical climbing skills.

Unlike the more established Abruzzi Spur or Cesen routes, the North Ridge tackles K2 from the remote Chinese side. It is known to be the most challenging and perilous ascent of K2, passing some of the most technical areas of the mountain. 

Consequently, it attracts far fewer climbers, offering a chance to experience the mountain's solitude, with uncrowded camps and an immersive journey into K2's wild beauty. However, while The North Ridge offers breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding peaks and glaciers, its mental and physical demands present formidable physical and mental hurdles.

The first challenge of the North Ridge is simply reaching it. The Shaksgam River poses a significant obstacle, as it is impassable during certain months of the year. Once there, climbers face a constant threat of avalanches and rockfalls, significantly raising the risk of unexpected disruptions. The route's steep rock and ice sections, coupled with a scarcity of fixed ropes, elevate the challenge to a whole new level.

However, despite these obstacles, the North Ridge offers a significant advantage: it bypasses the notorious bottleneck that plagues the south side of the mountain. This can be a major draw for experienced mountaineers seeking a less crowded ascent.

Deciding on which K2 expedition route to take requires careful consideration. Each route presents different technical challenges and, depending on your strengths as a climber, you may want to take a different path. Consider the following questions when assessing K2 climbing routes:

How Much Experience Do You Have?

Assess your technical proficiency and choose a route that matches your skill level. The Abruzzi Spur is best for mountaineers who enjoy mixed climbing, as it involves climbing over rock, snow and ice.

Alternatively, the Cesen Route is steeper and more direct, requiring incredibly advanced climbing skills and fitness levels.

It should be noted that no route is suitable for beginners. If you are thinking of climbing K2 you should have experience climbing at least one other 8,000m mountain.

How Quickly Do You Acclimatize?

Acclimatization is always the biggest challenge for climbers attempting to summit K2 and it’s vital to understand how you respond as an individual so that you are as prepared as possible.

Every route demands a well-executed acclimatization plan to avoid the potentially fatal dangers of altitude sickness. However, the approach itself can influence the strategy. The gradual slopes of the Abruzzi Spur allow for a more natural acclimatization process compared to the steeper, more direct challenge of the Cesen Route.

What Time of Year Are You Climbing?

The route you choose may also be impacted by the time of year you decide to climb. For example, the weather can become unpredictable if you decide to climb at the beginning or end of the climbing season. To learn more about the weather on K2 and how it can affect your climb, take a look at our guide here.

What Personal Goals Do You Have?

Climbers have different goals and preferences, whether it’s achieving a summit, pushing their technical limits, or seeking adventure in remote wilderness. The choice of route should align with these personal objectives. For instance, those seeking a higher chance of summiting might prefer the Abruzzi Spur, while those looking for a more challenging and isolated climb might opt for the North Ridge.