Nimsdai Purja MBE

Always a little higher

Never one to shy away from pushing himself #alwaysalittlehigher, in 2009, Nims became the first Gurkha ever to join the UK Special Boat Service (SBS). The highly-selective unit is predominantly made up of Royal Marines Commandos, and specialises in classified, undercover raids. Along with the SAS, the SBS is regarded as the most elite unit in the British military.

His interest in mountaineering developed over the course of the next decade, beginning with a trek to Everest Base Camp in 2012, while on leave from the SBS. It might be a long way from the record-breaking summit expeditions he leads today, but the experience lit a spark. Nims felt compelled to achieve more. Not content with simply returning to Kathmandu after the trek, he managed to convince his guide, Dorje Khatri, to teach him how to climb “for real”. He successfully summited the 6,119-metre-high Lobuche East with his Khatri shortly after. It was his first peak.

Nims’ primary focus and loyalty remained with his unit, carrying out tours and operations behind enemy lines. Eventually he earned the position of Subject Matter Expert for Extreme Cold-weather Warfare within the mountain cell of the SBS. Throughout the military chapter of his life he developed the skills needed to quickly evaluate situations, then act decisively to ensure the welfare of others, all while keeping eyes on the overall objective. He might not have known it at the time, but this skillset would prove invaluable for his future climbing career.

As and when his military deployments allowed, the mountaineering continued. His #alwaysalittlehigher mindset was the driving force for further climbs around the world, eventually leading him towards his first ascent of Everest, in 2016. His achievement was made even more remarkable by a selfless act of solo rescue, helping a stricken climber during the descent, high in the death zone.

That same year, he met the man who would become his close friend, climbing buddy and ultimately, business partner: Mingma David Sherpa. Their relationship is built on a deep respect for one another, and an implicit trust in each other’s abilities. But it was tragedy that first brought them together. Mingma David was mentored by Dorje Khatri, the guide who’d first taught Nims to climb. Sadly, Khatri was killed in an avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall, near Everest, in 2014. When Nims sought out Khatri’s young team mate, two years later, he realised they shared more in common than just their respect for the late great guide.

The natural advantage

Soon after he started climbing, Nims realised he had a natural physiological advantage – he was able to climb and acclimatise to altitude quicker than most mountaineers. This newfound awareness naturally fuelled even greater ambition. So, after serving in the British Tier One Special Forces unit (SBS) for ten years, he took the brave decision to leave in early 2019, to pursue a dream - a project so ambitious, nobody thought it possible.